December 21, 2008

• Fort Madison’s Lucky Cards

  Sweet Therapy

  Ivy Bake Shoppe & Café Soothes Fort Mad

  http://www.ivybakeshoppe.com/

  Sometimes you win a war by losing battles. Fort Madison’s history is colored with such ironic victories. In 1813, U.S. Army post commander Thomas Hamilton burned the original fort to the ground, rather than letting it become a base for Black Hawk and his Sauk warriors. The U.S. army would eventually triumph, but even Black Hawk admitted things became better afterwards — when white and Indian settlers peacefully shared custody of the land.

  After bridging the Mississippi River in 1887, the Santa Fe Railway delivered rapid growth to the town. But things slowed down considerably after the railroad era gave way to super highways. Because Fort Madison was too small for an highway by-pass, and a short driving distance to both Burlington and Keokuk, it was long overlooked by many of the corporate franchisers and discounters that homogenized the American landscape during the second half of the twentieth century. This helped its downtown businesses survive without economic pressures to tear down historic buildings in order to construct bigger and more modern things. Now, those old brick buildings preserve a quaint charm that drives Fort Madison’s hot tourist industry.

  This riverboat town has a knack for playing the cards that are dealt.

  When downsizing followed an ownership change at the Schaefer Pen Company, the maximum security Iowa State Penitentiary became the largest, oldest and best known employer in town. Such status could shame other places, but “Fort Mad” embraces the notoriety like a beloved, outlandish aunt — citizens wear shirts and jackets that sport darling little bloodhound logos, which is also the high school’s mascot. The business culture similarly thrives on eccentricity, proudly refurbishing its historic identity, oblivious to the monotony of third millennium commercial architecture in most other towns.

  For foodies, Fort Madison is warden to a pen full of non-conformist originals. The town was known as “Goosetown” a century ago, when the mostly German residents raised geese in their yards. Today Fort Mad’s culinary assets seem to be have been plucked from another time or place. The town’s top fine dining restaurant is most famous for its Sri Lankhan chef and his fried strawberries. A superb Lebanese steakhouse sports mid 20^th century neon décor. A “supper club” with a Hispanic surname reminds one that the town’s Mexican-born population exceeded 1000 as long ago as the 1920‘s. A large Greek “pizza & steakhouse” is touted for its catfish. Next door sits a tiny river view diner that specializes in an infamous excess known as the “Wallyburger.”

  Yet, nothing entices gourmets to this off beat town like the old fashioned butter & cream baking of Susan Welch Saunders and Martha Wolf. Like Fort Mad itself, these proprietors of the Ivy Bake Shoppe & Café have parlayed a badly dealt hand into a jackpot.

  “When we started, we were both going through divorces. We did it as much for therapy as anything,” explained Wolf.

  The ladies began baking in the spring of 1992 convinced there was a market because working women wanted scratch baked foods, but didn’t have time to bake themselves. The two met with a supplier, had their home kitchens inspected, bought a $100 worth of advertising and opened for business in Saunders’ basement. Along with three other women, they sold their goods on Fridays. Customers had to walk through Sue’s living room to get to the cloth-covered ping pong table display.

  The other bakers began dropping out. After 18 months Wolf and Saunders were the only remaining partners. A neighborhood grocery store started stocking their goods then three other retailers followed. Martha and Sue were putting in 18 hour days in their small kitchens to keep up with the demand. They had exhausted the potential of working out of Sue‘s home.

  About that time, Martha’s former husband acquired an historic old clothing store in downtown Fort Madison and encouraged the ladies to open a restaurant there. While the 12,000 square -foot Hesse Building was being remodeled, the ladies toured bakeries and coffee shops in Davenport, Cedar Falls, Cedar Rapids and Omaha looking for inspirations. They consulted the Small Business Development Center at the local community college, wrote a business plan and took out a bank loan for $25,000. By Fall of 1995, they were ready to open a café, with a few eccentricities that suited the town’s personality.

  “We knew from the beginning that we wanted the Ivy to serve a fresh, eclectic chalkboard menu. So we would be able to set the menu for the week based on the availability of fresh produce, especially in the summer and fall, and because, after all, this is the Midwest,” Martha explained.

  The chalkboard menu is constantly updated as items sell out. Customers are still adjusting to the limitations of this “fresh & local” school of thinking. On one visit, I overheard a husband and wife blaming each other for delays that made them minutes late for that day’s onion pie.

  “You just had to stop and take a photo at that stupid gun shop?”

  “That took two minutes, your second bathroom stop took fifteen.”

  “On chill out, they still have tomato-basil pie.”

  There is always something to love here. With a screened-in porch fronting the downtown’s main street, historic antique furnishings, original oak floors and pressed tin ceilings, the Ivy is Fort Madison’s community center as well as a magnetic force on tourists. An Ivy survey discovered just how much so — ever since the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints built a new temple 15 minutes away, three fourths of the café’s customers have been coming from out of town!

  The other quarter is intensely loyal, particularly during the morning hours. Bernard Hesse, who sold the building to the ladies, is now a regular customer, sitting where his family used to display the latest clothing fashions. Regulars often fill three round tables in front.

  “There’s a crowd that comes regularly for coffee, breakfast and just to see each other. There’s a 7 o’clock shift, then the 8 o’clock group and the nine o’clock shift,” explained Sue.

  Then comes the eleven o’clock rush, coincidental with the day’s first caramel apple tart. Only 36 servings of that treat are made daily and they sell out quickly — so people time their visits accordingly. Regionally famous blackberry scones, cinnamon rolls, or sticky pecan rolls come in less limited editions. Popular among the rotating lunches are pot pies, quiches, lasagna and grilled panini. Carrot, squash and tortilla soups all have fan clubs. So do sorbets and exotic salads that, during their season, employ greens so young and fresh they shouldn’t be allowed out after dark. Local garden produce from Burlington farms of Fred & Susan Gerst and Chris Gehringer, as well as from Kathy Hohl of Donnellson, keep the flavors fresh and local.

  Now eleven years old, the Ivy has over a dozen employees and a second store in Burlington. Most of the workers have been with Sue and Martha for a long time.

  “We have one employee since day one, one since day twenty and several more with 5 to 10 years of service. We have empowered our staff to know that they make a difference, that it takes all of us to give the customers the experience that they want,” Martha explained.

  Success and staff loyalty haven’t cut back Martha and Sue’s work loads though. “Twelve hour days are still routine for both of us and 18 hour days are common,” Sue said. Martha added that they wouldn’t want it any other way.

  “I spent 25 years as a social worker and no one ever said ‘thank you’ to me for anything. Not once. Now we get that every day. This is so empowering because every day we sense some appreciation. Tourists come with an expectation that things will cost more than they do, and then they really appreciate us. Regulars come with a sense of trust — they usually ask what the special is and often they try it even if it’s a stretch for them. We have been able to raise the awareness of foods that way.

  “Back at the time I was going through my divorce I said, ’God, I don’t know what You have planned for me, but there is no way this can be better. There’s no way this can be OK again.’ Well, it’s more than OK now,” Martha concluded, with Sue nodding.

  Several thousand locals, and three times as many out-of-towners, agree.

  Holiday Recipes

  From the Ivy Bake Shoppe Cookbook, by Sue Saunders and Martha Wolf, Gibbs Smith Publisher.

  CRANBERRY SALAD
  
  1 package cranberries, coarsely chopped in food processor
  2 apples, chopped with peeling
  2 oranges, peeled and chopped
  1 cup crushed pineapple
  1/2 cup chopped celery
  Juice of 1 lemon
  
  1 package unflavored gelatin
  1/4 cup cold water
  2 cups boiling water
  2 packages sugar free Jell-O (raspberry, strawberry, cranberry)
  
  Mix gelatin with cold water to dissolve. Add 2 cups boiling water to
  Jell-O. Stir until Jell-O is dissolved.
  
  Place cranberries, apples, oranges, pineapple, celery and lemon juice in a
  big bowl and pour JELLO mixture over it. Stir until combined. Pour into 9
  X 13 glass dish; making sure the JELLO covers all the fruit. Chill until
  firm.
  
  SWEDISH TEA CAKES
  
  1 package dry yeast
  1/4 cup warm water
  2 1/4 cups flour
  2 Tablespoons sugar
  1 teaspoon salt
  1/2 cup butter
  1/4 cup evaporated milk
  1 egg
  1/4 cup craisins
  
  Filling:
  1/4 cup butter, softened
  1/2 cup light brown sugar
  
  Icing:
  2 Tablespoons butter
  1 cup sifted powdered sugar
  1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  2 Tablespoons evaporated milk
  
  Optional 1/2 cup toasted pecans for garnish
  
  Soften yeast in warm water. Mix flour, sugar and salt in mixing bowl with
  paddle attachment. Mix in butter until particles are fine. Add evaporated
  milk, egg, craisins and yeast to flour and butter mixture.
  Mix well on low speed. Cover and chill in refrigerator at least 3 hours or
  overnight.
  
  Make filling when ready to roll our dough. Cream butter and brown sugar until thoroughly combined. Divide dough into 3 equal parts. Roll out one part on a floured surface to a 6 X 12 rectangle. Spread with 1/3 filling.
  Roll up starting with the 12-inch side. Seal by pinching dough together.
  Form roll into crescent shape and place on cookie sheet lined with foil or
  parchment paper. Make 1/2 inch cuts along outside edge of crescent about 1
  inch apart. Repeat with other two portions of dough. Let rolls rise in
  warm place until light, about 45 minutes. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 -25
  minutes or until golden brown. Frost with icing while hot.
  
  To make icing, brown butter in small iron skillet. Add powdered sugar, and vanilla. Stir in evaporated milk until it is of spreading consistency,
  adding morel evaporated milk if necessary. Spread icing on tea cakes after
  removing them from the oven. Sprinkle with toasted pecans if desired. Serve
  slightly warm, cut in small pieces. Freezes great!
  

  Fort Madison Lodging

  The Kingsley Inn, 707 Avenue H, 319-372-7074, 800-441-2327, www.kingsleyinn.com

  This historic inn named for Alpha Kingsley, the first commander of the Fort that gave the town its name. The inn is 150 years old and has been restored to full elegance with antique oak, marble and polished burls.

  Dining

  Ivy Bake Shoppe & Café

  6th Street & Avenue G, 319-372-9939, www.ivybakeshoppe.com

  Monday thru Saturday: 7 a.m.- 2 p.m.

  The entire café is available for private parties, fully catered to suit the customer.
  

  Alpha’s on the River, 709 H Avenue, 319-372-1411

  Chef Kumar Wickramasingha came from Sri Lankha, but presents food with the flair of a Mississippi paddle wheeler. This is most apparent in his famous desserts: a variation of bananas Foster, called banana fritters; and fried strawberries. Most people come for the aged steaks, but Kumar’s fennel-infused pork tenderloin wraps and his pork loin salad have won national competitions.

  The Palms Supper Club, 4920 Ave. O, Highway 61 south, 319-372-5833

  This classic roadside steakhouse opened in 1961 with waterfall oases and plenty of palm trees highlighting the décor. Steak a l’Arabia and kibba have been a popular Lebanese entrée since then. Aged Iowa beef are hand cut in the kitchen.

  • 8:44 pm
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