March 15, 2009
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Whiskey Gets Frisky
Makeovers Are the Hot New Thing
Whiskey has always shown symptoms of bipolarism. In Ireland, where it originated, it was spelled it with an “e.” Since the first whiskey makers in America were mostly Irish, both bourbon and Tennessee whiskeys are spelled that way too. But Scots spelled it without an “e,” and Canadians followed their lead. So, American and Irish whiskeys are spelled differently than Scotch and Canadian whiskies.
Until recently, the spirit’s complicated personality was easy to understand. Unlike vodka and gin, whisky never compromised its mature products with gimmicky flavors. Scotch was either single malt or blended and its distinctions were as clear as its vintage. Most single malt varieties came from barrels that had been aged 10, 15 or 20 years. Now 21st century drinkers have to cope with mysterious “3D” labels. These blend three different vintages of scotch, but distillers don’t reveal how old any of them are. What’s that about?
By law, scotch malts must be dried by peat-fired kilns, creating more smoky flavor than American whiskeys have. Some scotches develop smokiness with age, others do the opposite. When deep smoky flavor became popular, Bruichladdich tried to cheat the fashion curve by blending older single malt vintages with younger, smokier ones. Then other scotch makers began adding flavors, pouring aged whisky into barrels previously used to age wines — port, sauternes, tokaji, burgundy, Madeira and Malaga. Cognac barrels were briefly used, but that proved a disaster. After vintage single malt scotches began selling for more than $5,000 a bottle on the internet, some distilleries began reproducing “replica” scotches. That pretty much ended after it was discovered replicas were based on clever forgeries.
The new strategies were leveraged by debt, as big international corporations bought many centuries-old family distilleries. They needed income growth, which meant new products. Bruichladdich now plans to bring out a whole new line of aged single malt whiskies annually. Other than Glenlivet, few Scottish distilleries are holding the line on the traditional methods of aging. So some serious scotch drinkers in America are switching to single barrel bourbons like Elijah Craig or Blanton’s, and to Tennessee whiskies like George Dickle and Jack Daniels. Former Iowan Fritz Maytag’s Old Potrero has even revived the 18th century art of single malt rye whiskey.
But for the most part, the new business strategy is working. In an age when fashion changes seasonally, distilleries can’t afford to wait 10 years to discover if their timing synchronizes with consumer taste. Compromised premium scotches have prospered the trend-driven American market. Sales of single malt scotch grew 19 % last year, making that one of the fastest growing segments of the $ 45 billion a year spirit industry. Premium whiskey is reclaiming liquor store shelf space lost to vodka and gin during the martini craze, which analysts say has finally peaked.
Whiskey Law
Scotch must be made in Scotland from 100 % barley that is dried by peat-fueled kilns and aged in wood casks at least 3 years. (Whiskey loses 2 % of its volume each year of aging, known as the “angels’ share.”)
Bourbon must be made from at least 51 % corn and aged in charred white oak casks to a maximum of 125 proof.
Tennessee whiskey must be filtered through ten feet of sugar maple charcoal prior to aging.
Rye whiskey must be made from at least 51 % rye.
Irish whiskey must be distilled in Ireland or Northern Ireland and aged in wood a minimum of 3 years.
Comments (1)
Jim: Nice column. Thanks for explaining the differences. I’ve forwarded this on to a few Bourbon heads I know.