June 10, 2009
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Two Masters of One Trade
Sandwich Icons of Des Moines
A Chinese proverb says “Be not a jack of all trades, but a master of one.” Jack of all trades was a derogatory term well into the 20th century. It’s cool today particularly in the food business where quantity now trumps quality. Many young chefs have never seen a restaurant that masters just one good thing. Yet, fast food giants like McDonalds, KFC, DQ and Taco Bell all began selling a single entrée. Fifty years ago, Des Moines’ bakeries sold nothing but baked goods, fish markets handled nothing but fish and long lines waited at Canfield’s for their signature smoked ribs. Today chain restaurant menus often run into double digits – of pages not just items. Even most concession stands offer multiple choices. That defies proverbial wisdom from ancient China to Ralph Waldo Emerson, who also advised mastering a single specialty: “Make a better mousetrap, even in the woods, and people will beat a path to your doorstep.”
One month after Town House Tenderloins opened on Army Post Road, a beaten path was already forming in the grass between the self service trailer and its parking lot.
Breaded pork tenderloins are an Iowa icon despite being unknown beyond Indiana to the east, Omaha to the west, Minneapolis to the north and the Iowa-Missouri border to the south. At least three web sites are completely dedicated to the argument over who makes Iowa’s best tenderloin. The Iowa Pork Producers Association has anointed tenderloins from seven different places as “Iowa’s best.” The Des Moines Register published a readers’ poll of nearly 50 “best” tenderloins. Food writer Tyrgyzistan (Tristan Frank) is more discriminating. He’s diligently sampled and judged tenderloins in 86 Iowa cafés. None has received a higher rating than those at Town House Supper Club in Wellsburg, about two hours northeast of Des Moines. The usually reticent Tyrgyzistan calls them “amazing.”
Owner Terry Town now duplicates those loins on the southside. I tried both a queen ($4) and a king ($6). Measured in ounces of pork, Town’s queen was larger than most “jumbo’s” in town. Mine was seven eighths of an inch thick and covered in crunchy, golden fried Panko that separated from the meat in my mouth. Buns were fresh, buttered and toasted. Condiments included banana peppers, jalapenos, real mayonnaises, chopped onions and pickles. Tenderloins were also available on a stick.
Italian Beef: It’s Not Just for Chicago Anymore
Tommy Farrell says it took him a lifetime to figure out that mastering one dish is a better business plan than jacking around with dozens.
At Fourth Street Chicago Italian Beef he serves a sandwich that is argued about in Chicago like tenderloins are in Iowa. Farrell uses his “grandmother Fratto’s secret recipe” which produced an astonishingly good au jus, multiple peppers, celery and a freshly baked Amodeo’s yeast roll that held together when saturated with the juicy stock.
Farrell has owned big night club’s like the legendary Jukebox Saturday Night, and big restaurants like Tommy Farrell’s, but says he loves the casual simplicity of his new place. Officially, “it’s open if I’m here.” His logo is an heirloom photo of four buddies including his father Lou Farrell and restaurant legend Babe Bisignano in his days as a pro wrestler. Tommy Farrell offers sandwiches with hot or mild peppers but insists that you take peppers. (An Italian egg sandwich is also sold Saturday mornings and a sausage sandwich on weekend nights.) He proudly displays books about the lore of the Mafia, including Lou Farrell. Then he asks customers if they’ve ever had a better sandwich.
Bottom line – if you want the best tenderloin or the best Italian beef sandwich in Iowa, then beat a path to these two doors.
Fourth Street Chicago Italian Beef
204 Fourth St., 288-3844
Loose hours usually include Mon. – Fri. 11 a.m. – 2 p.m., Mon. – Thurs. 9 p.m. till “late,” Fri. – Sat. “till even later,” and Sat. mornings during Farmer’s Market.
Town House Tenderloins
East 1st St. & Army Post Rd.,
Mon. – Wed. 11 a.m. – 7 p.m.
