December 9, 2009
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Nuevo Latino
Des Moines’ restaurant scene reflects the vibrancy of our Latin American community. New places open so fast, even in this economy, that I had to spend entire week catching up. Fortunately, all these hard working restaurateurs stay open seven days a week.
Restaurante El Comalito joins a small group of Salvadoran specialists. Spanish language soap opera played loudly on a television ignored by mostly male customers who packed the place on my first visit. Somehow, a single friendly waitress managed quick, flawless service without falling behind on the story line. Five good salsas were offered with chilies dominating all. Crisply fried plantain empanadas were nicely dusted with confectioner’s sugar. Pupusas (corn pancakes) were stuffed with soft white cheese, loroco (a vine flower), and Central American style chicharron (finely ground pork, not rind as in Mexico). They were served with fresh curtido (slaw) and a carroty salsa.
Scratch made tacos, burritos and sopes were stuffed with one’s choice of meats, including the house’s magnificent chopped carne asada, as tender as pot roast. Drinks included a home made hibiscus flower “Jamaica.” All plates were garnished nicely with carved radishes, cilantro, halves of lime, etc.
Cactus Mexican Grill was hard to navigate. Clive constructed a new island that prevents southbound traffic from turning into businesses on the east side of 86th Street. In fact, Cactus Grill is the only business open in its strip mall and the space next door appears to be an abandoned McDonalds, a sight as rare as civic harassment of taxpaying businesses. Bar service, reduced to margaritas and beer for now, was friendly and televisions played sports without volume. A short menu offered choices of meats in burritos, tacos and other starches. I tried some excellent pork in warmed tortillas, with good salsa, beans and rice. I’d bet that anyone who likes El Rey Burrito will like this place too.
Spanish style architectural touches dressed the walls and floors of West Glen’s Los Cabos. The menu was novella length, reminiscent of El Rodeo‘s. Most dishes were designed for suburban taste: Ground beef or chicken was standard in all combo specials; table salsas tasted more like tomato juice than chilies. More traditional roasted and fried meats, in chile salsas, were offered but hard to find on the long menu. Chile rellenos delivered a fresh, stem-on poblano, stuffed with melted Mexican cheese, battered, fried and served in a mild salsa.
An egg dish was served well done, with smooth beans and rice. Guacamole was a nice surprise on both dishes but tortillas were oddly served in aluminum foil. Neither dish was garnished, something that even humble taco trucks do well in Des Moines.
Plaza Mexico’s second area store, in Johnston, was packed on two occasions, including a Sunday when it appeared to be popular with after-church crowd. That’s easy to understand. Menus were as long as Los Cabos’ and portions were humongous with lots of beans, rice, guacamole and cheese on each dish. Recipes were tailored for suburban tastes, even more than at Los Cabos. Table salsas were mostly tomatoes. Chile “rellenos” weren’t stuffed. Instead, that dish included a chile that had been topped off, its membranes and seeds removed. and preserved in something that turned it pale green. It had been laid under a serving of melted cheese covered meat.
Carne asada brought two large pieces of nicely seared flank steak. Service stood out, waiters frequently checked in and were able to accommodate most requests. There were no garnishes but there wasn’t really room on my plates for any either.
Plaza Mexico
6110 NW 86th St., Johnston, 270-5010
Daily 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Cactus Mexican Grill
1979 NW 86th St., Clive, 223-2202
Daily 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Restaurante Los Cabos
5465 Mill Civic Pkwy., W Des Moines, 564-7200
Daily from 11 a.m.
Restaurante El Comalito
1100 E. 14th St., 263-3545
Daily 9 a.m. – 10 p.m.
