December 9, 2009
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Smokey Row on Top of Old Sherman Hill
On my last trip to Seattle, a sassy concierge gave me the following directions: “Go straight by 12 Starbucks and turn left at the 13th Starbucks. Your restaurant will be half way between the fourth and fifth Starbucks after that.” Sometimes you win a war by losing battles. That’s the case with Des Moines’ coffeehouse culture.
Before the mid part of this decade, Central Iowa did not fit the expansion profile of industrial coffee chains Starbucks and Caribou. That helped independent coffeehouses grow distinctive personalities. Java Joe’s nourished the independent music and art scenes. So did Zanzibar’s which also supported fresh and local farms and artisan bakeries. Grounds for Celebration developed their own gelatos. All those places roasted their own beans. Amici brought an almost fanatical Italian expression to the scene with Tuscan machines, Bolognese roasted beans, Udinese china, and an exceptional Sicilian wine list. Half a dozen other independent coffeehouses served distinct neighborhood or cultural niches, like Mars (Dogtown), Cup o’ Kryptonite (comic books) and The Break Room (pet owners).
Those coffeehouses were more sympathetic to local economics than the giant corporate carpetbaggers. By the time Starbucks and Caribou brought their religious trade war to town, most of Des Moines had developed loyalties to independents. So when Smokey Row, a successful independent coffeehouse from Oskaloosa, Pleasantville and Pella, announced they were renovating an old warehouse on Cottage Grove, I wondered if they came too late to the party, even though they have a lot going for them. Their small town stores were civic icons. Every major Presidential candidate visited Smokey Row at least once during the last election cycle. Their roasted coffees are brand names too, sold at Hy-Vee in those areas. Their cheeseburger chowder drew the attention of national magazines. But Iowa is provincial and no place more so than Des Moines. Would coalmine country coffee fly in the capitol city?
After three and a half years of remodeling and highway reconstruction, the answer came quickly. Sherman Hill embraced Smokey Row as a kindred spirit, the savior of venerable old real estate that could well have fallen to the wrecking ball. A fern bar without the ferns, Smokey Row features original brick walls, hard wood floors and nostalgia theme furnishings. Antique tables and chairs don’t match each other so much as the eclectic mood. That matches the clientele: Bible discussion groups, Twelve Steppers, bureaucrats, artists and, of course, politicians. The triangular building conveniently provides five different working entrances plus a drive through window!
Coffees were in line with the other top coffeehouses – catholic in origin and mostly in $12 a pound range. The kitchen resembled an old fashioned diner. Breakfast was served at any hour and included
a good broccoli quiche, with cottage cheese and fruit, along with a short menu of bacon and egg dishes.
Lunch and dinner included soups, short order sandwiches and salads. There was Miracle Whip but no mayonnaise, nor pickles for deli sandwiches. Loose meat beef burgers were better than patty hamburgers. All sandwiches came with good kettle chips.
Creamed chicken on home made biscuits reminded me of middle school cafeteria food, back when that was a good thing. A “hippie chic” delivered a creative mix of chicken breast, spinach, provolone and guacamole on a fresh bagel. Cheeseburger chowder mixed fresh and processed cheeses. Fountain treats maintained the nostalgia theme, with phosphates and cane sugar soft drinks sharing a menu with more contemporary drinks. AE ice cream could be ordered with waffle cones hot off the griddle. A large line of cookies, pastries and desserts was about fifty per cent home made.
Bottom line – An overnight success, almost four years in the making.
Smokey Row
1910 Cottage Grove, 244-2611
Sun. 6 a.m. – 9 p.m., Mon. – Thurs 6 a.m. – 10 p.m., Fri.- Sat. 6 a.m. – 11 p.m.
