December 25, 2009
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Romancing the Stove
Jasmine Bowl
My paternal grandfather, a failed restaurateur, scoffed at conventional trappings of romantic dining like candlelight, linen, violins, and roses. “Romance,” he said, “is the stuff that takes you where you’ve never been.” Grandfather would consider Jasmine Bowl an epic romance on many levels.
The restaurant was created at the happy coincidence of two real life romances. Nigerian-born chef Mark Lijadu met his Thailand-born wife Suppatra when both were studying at the Iowa Culinary Institute in Ankeny. Suppatra wanted to own a bakery and Mark wanted to own a restaurant, like his family had in Nigeria. Meanwhile Tom Mauer fell in love with a Minnesotan and put Florene’s up for sale. To move the real estate in a slow market, Mauer agreed to sell his bakery recipes, an extraordinary collection gathered during his romantic and worldly education, including stints in three different Michelin three star restaurants in France. So, Jasmine Bowl is now an old fashioned bakery that also serves the best short order breakfasts in town, several southeast Asian specialties and a few choice items from Mexican, Moroccan, West African and Japanese cuisines. You’d have to travel far and wide to find that anywhere else.
Chef Mark recreated Mauer’s griddle work faithfully.
Buttermilk pancakes were thick, buttery and flaky to a degree that I have never been able to accomplish at home. Mauer never would tell me how he did it, and I begged. He obviously told Lijadu, who served them with real maple syrup and free seconds. Lijadu offered extra touches like fresh blueberries, butter-sautéed cinnamon bananas and homemade strawberry sauce with his cakes. He also duplicated Florene’s Belgian waffles. Mauer gave up the secret to those because it involves a two day yeast batter process he figured few people would have the patience to follow.
Lijadu added a southern California touch to his waffles, serving them with three giant chicken wings that had been brined before being fried to a delightful crispiness.
Breakfast, and weekend brunch, also featured: fresh sliced hash browns; home made biscuits with scratch gravy and lots of sausage; and omelets, including one made with real crab meat.
“Chicken hash” was also served on the brunch menu. The name is confusing. It’s more like a twist on the hot chicken sandwich, with an entire grilled chicken breast sliced into bite-sized pieces and laid over a slice of bread, mashed potatoes and superb stock pot gravy. Lighter breakfasts, from the bakery, were irresistible carryout temptations – bear claws, turtle muffins, magic bars, multiple turnovers, puff pastries, coffee cake, cinnamon rolls and sticky rolls. Lijadu is offering lard crust pies for the holidays, from Mauer’s recipe that always attained thick, flaky perfection rarely found anywhere these days.
Saharan lamb stew stood out on an eccentric lunch and dinner menu with wonderful sweetness coaxed out of peppers and tomatoes. It was served with spot-on perfect fried plantains, something that is rarely done well in Des Moines.
Lijadu said it was Moroccan inspired, slow cooked tajine-style, in a spiced sauce of jalapenos and tomatoes. It was served with jasmine rice, caramelized plantains and a garnish of fresh herbs.
Acapulco pork was a winner – marinated pork steak served on brown rice with fresh peppers, onions and mushrooms and topped with fried egg.
Pad thai was made with homemade tamarind sauce and served with ground nuts.
Crab cakes were made with real crab and served with chipotle mayo. At less than $6, they are the best crab cake deal in town, by a crab claw. Curries were made with freshly mixed pastes and coconut milk. Green papaya salad was served with chicken wings. Monte Cristos were served in classic style, with egg batter and powdered sugar. All breakfast and lunch items were priced under $8 and all dinner items under $10.
Bottom line. Wonderfully unique and affordable.
Jasmine Bowl
2128 Indianola Ave., 284-0077,
www.jasminebowl.comTues. – Fri. 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. & 5 p.m. – 8:30 p.m.; Sat. – Sun. 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.
