February 19, 2010
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Texas Roadhouse Packs Them In
The hero of Christopher Koch’s novel “The Year of Living Dangerously” is a journalist who beats everyone – the CIA, the Communists, other journalists – to the story of the Suharno coup by asking one simple question – Who has the most guns? Similarly, my completely unscientific survey of restaurant parking lots has found Texas Roadhouse to be the busiest place in the metro, just ahead of Hu Hot.
I tend to notice such things from a distance. It took me years to discover that big chains Cracker Barrel, Outback and Culver’s delivered decent food for reasonable prices. When Zagat’s far more “scientific” survey rated Texas Roadhouse’s steaks third best in the country among chains (Outback was first), I decided it was time to see what has been packing their parking lot.
Texas Roadhouse is 17 year old chain from Indiana. Like most transplants, it works hard to simulate authenticity. Its music, piney wood furniture, ubiquitous cactus and neon beer signs were as Texan as the many dead things mounted on their walls, including white tail deer, antelope, elk and big bass. I quickly discovered why the place was not cited by Zagat for good service. Upon entering for the first time, I found heavily perfumed, gum chewing hostesses talking to each other while three parties waited to be seated in front of a door blasting arctic air. No one was offered a chance to wait at a warm, empty bar. When I was seated, with no choice among scores of empty tables, I listened to a long spiel without being able to understand any words except for “legendary“ and “margaritas.”
I was appeased with free peanuts but was ordered to leave the shells in an empty bucket.
Things got better when my waitress appeared with superior diction plus wonderful hot yeast rolls and “honey butter.”
She cheerfully offered to bring some straight butter on request and she refilled my empty bread basket without being asked. Those yeast rolls would be the best things I tasted on multiple visits, though nothing was bad. “Rattlesnake bites” proved to be mild “poppers” of deep fried jalapeno bits and jack cheese. “Chicken critters” were above average chicken strips, in a crunchy batter. “Tater skins” were topped with melted cheddar, bacon and sour cream. Salads were gargantuan. One house salad included a Texas sized handful of bacon bits and cheese.
A Caesar salad included perfectly chilled romaine lettuce and a decent anchovy dressing with another large handful of grated “parmesan” cheese and croutons. “Fall-off-the-bone” ribs did, to a mushy fault. Pulled pork suffered from overly crunchy charred ends.
Country fried steak was as good as one expects in a roadhouse in Texas. Made with sirloin instead of round, it was exceptionally tender. Gravies served with beef and chicken dishes had good, natural flavors. Steaks ($9 – $20), including ribeyes, strips, filets, T-bones and sirloins, were displayed in the entrance. I wasn’t impressed with their marbling but was pleasantly surprised with the final product – cooked to order and tender, though overly seasoned. Interesting house steak sauce was laden with all kinds of fruit flavors. Two side dishes came with each meal and included sweet potatoes with marshmallows, cups of chili, and Caesar salads, plus the usual suspects. Gargantuan desserts ($5) included uninspired strawberry cheesecake and brownies. This was the first place outside Texas I ever saw a kids menu ($3 – $7) that included steak dinners. Early bird specials filled the place by 5:30 p.m.
Bottom Line – Bargain prices, good yeast rolls, decent steaks and huge servings explain the popularity of Texas Roadhouse. For my chain steakhouse money, it falls short of Outback or Fleming’s though.
Texas Roadhouse
8744 Northpark Dr., Johnston, 251-4597
Mon – Thurs. 4 p.m. – 10 p.m. Fri. 4 p.m. – 11 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m. – 11 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
