August 26, 2010
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Ray Earl’s Big Boned Soul
Arkansas-rooted Ray Earl Mason has resurrected soul food in Des Moines with old family recipes and smokehouse diligence. His Ray Earl’s Bar-B-Q & Soul even serves a holy grail of soul food pilgrims – buffalo fish, aka “big bone.” Those fish aren‘t for everyone – they’re hard to catch and fight like hell on the line. They’re difficult to eat (you need to suck the best flesh off long bones). To those who don‘t mind the challenges, they’re totally worth it.
I like buffalo fish so much that they’re my first meal on every trip to Memphis, Helena or Clarksdale – the holy trinity of soul food towns. I figured such love was unique in Des Moines. Ray told me one day that he was getting in a supply of big bones in for dinner. I thanked him profusely, looked at my calendar and said I would see him the following day. He warned me that he was ONLY getting 50 pounds. I stupidly assumed he was kidding and showed up a day late and a fish short. Three subsequent trips were just as poorly timed. Ray said that summer floods on the Mississippi River have decimated the legal supply of buffalo fish. Iowa doesn’t allow restaurants to buy fresh fish from fishermen who have been pulling them off the Scott Street Bridge this summer. We wouldn’t want that.
I found lots of consolation on my visits though. Ray uses only fruit woods – cherry, apple and peach – to smoke beef briskets, pork butts, rib tips, ribs, chickens, and an occasional turkey. All were served in very sweet sauces that can overwhelm the good flavors of the smoked meats if you don‘t order your sauce on the side.
Both brisket and shoulder were served chopped, with two large buns. That should give you a good idea about generosity of the servings.
Ribs were competition worthy – smoked dark on the outside with a deep pink rings and tender meat on the inside. I tried a split order of chicken wings – half fried southern style and half smoked. Both delivered tender meat and big flavors.
Catfish was served with filets cut into smaller pieces that could be fried crisply without over cooking any part of the fish. Their batter was crunchy with corn meal.
Mac & cheese was soul style, more like Velveeta than like anything being made in bistros with truffle oil accents. Collard greens were served dark green but without the least bit of sogginess. They were spiked with a little lardy flavor too but no acid kick. Slaw was crisper than any I’ve had all summer with freshly sliced cabbage treated to a creamy bath that complemented it, rather than drowning it. Beans were probably too smoky to be dating so many smoked meats.
Desserts included sweet potato pie and peach cobbler.
The former had a divine thin crust, as good as they get. I swore I tasted maple syrup in the pie filling but Ray claimed it was just a little pineapple juice.
The cobbler was similar to what we call “fruit crisp” up north, but with more fruit and less sugar. Ray Earl said he’ll be introducing more specials and new items, particularly on Sundays. He doesn’t sell beer or wine but customers may bring their own.
Ray Earl’s Bar-B-Q & Soul Food
3811 Douglas Ave., 339-0394
Tues. – Thurs. 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.
Fri. – Sat. 5 p.m. – 3 a.m.
Sun. 1 p.m. – 7 p.m.
Side Dishes
Chef Sean Wilson says both Azalea’s trappings and menu are being comfort fitted. Linen tablecloths and $30 entrees are out. House cured bacon and tasso ham, plus home made bitters and vermouths are in… Tommy Farrell leased the long-closed filling station that fronts El Patio on Ingersoll. He hopes to have it remodeled with festive lights, outdoor tables and heaters by September. Late night hours will be featured with Chicago style Italian beef sandwiches.
