September 14, 2010

• Ingersoll Sees Red

  

  Des Moines votes like a progressive but when it comes to attitudes about Ingersoll Avenue, the town is as conservative as a National Park Ranger warning campers to leave things exactly as they found them. National chains have given up on this street after Henry’s, Arby’s, Hardee’s, and Burger King were all vanquished. Two of city council’s hottest issues in recent years resulted from minor proposed changes to Ingersoll: for bike lanes; and for a convenience store in Dahl‘s parking lot. Yet, the soft opening of Red last month completed a remarkably quiet transition of two Ingersoll houses into the three story Adio Building.

  Ingersoll’s newest resident is a wellness center that includes: a chiropractic clinic and offices; studios and galleries that advocate art and color therapy; and a restaurant named after the longest wave length in the color spectrum – the only one that can penetrate smoke and seemingly controversy. Though the Adio was a rare Ingersoll innovation that didn’t generate protests, it wasn’t born easily. A billboard announcing its future weathered so badly during long construction delays that it faded to invisibility. That gave Red owner Su Nong time to reconsider. Her restaurant’s name changes to Red Poppy, Red China and Red China Bistro depending on which menu or business card you read.

  

  By any name, it massages the building’s aura. Design by Saley Nong (Splash) fuses feng shui and floral elements into a comforting oasis. Water, lava stones and beaded doors redirect a visitor’s vital energy toward all therapeutically-correct places. Music is stylish, be it Max Wellman or a salsa band. Stunning King Au photographs, giant flower vases, and a wall of red poppies stamp Red with a badge of uniqueness prerequisite to Ingersoll coolness. Style surpassed substance though. Tables wobbled badly.

  

  Chinese banquet chairs were remarkably uncomfortable. Stools weren‘t any easier on the back. Only one table was set with leather and metal chairs that didn’t seem to have been purchased by chiropractor’s devious agent. Over three weeks of visits, service improved from oblivious to responsive.

  The menu kept the fusion theme alive with dim sum dominant and Chinese, Southeast Asian and French entrees mingled.

  

  Among dim sum ($6-$8)

  

  fried mustard green wraps were stuffed with pork and ginger, shu mai with pork and black mushrooms.

  

  “Pad thai rolls” consisted of noodles that had been fried.

  

  “Five spice chicken wings” were dark brown, more fried than spiced. “Remakie” (a bacon wrapped take on ramaki), pot stickers, satay (kebab) with peanut sauce, crab Rangoon, lettuce wraps, and egg rolls all compared well with the PF Chang versions. Nothing compared to Kwong Tung’s dim sum for either price shoppers or exotic (Chinese) taste buds.

  “Salads” ($12) resembled “bun” dishes in most Southeast Asian restaurants. Rice noodles dominated those with choices of fish, meats or egg roll tossed in, and lots of carrots but hardly anything green. Dressings were so lightly applied I had to request a dish on the side. Entrees ($15-20) seemed to lack the balance of the restaurant’s design.

  

  One special, described by my waiter as a stir fry, delivered a huge plate of meat and shrimp with mushrooms and a couple slices of onion but nothing green. A “Laos chicken curry” consisted of fried chicken that tasted old, fresh chestnuts, lovely fresh trumpet mushrooms, onions and carrots, but no liquid nor any vegetables that usually absorb liquid in a curry.

  

  On the French side ($20-25), seared tuna was cooked beyond specification and was served with a “coconut-ginger risotto” that was identical to the plain jasmine rice on an order of sesame chicken.

  

  Bottom Line – Spectacularly good looking, Red is likely the year’s new Ingersoll hot spot. There are still wrinkles though.

  Red

  2925 Ingersoll Ave., 274-0097

  Mon. Sat. 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.; Sun. 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. (Breakfast, brunch and late night hours to come soon)

  • 1:45 pm
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