October 22, 2010

• Three Good Moves

  In a strange year that has seen restaurants open and close in the same month, three new places appear to have long term potential. Molly’s Delicatessen debuted this summer in a Northland Building space where Blaxicon labored for months without ever opening before Chef Joe’s moved in and out.

  

  Much of that historic building has been converted into artists’ studios lately and Molly’s fits in well, projecting the arty ambiance of a coffee house. People linger on their computers and children run about the antiques. Molly’s is in a second stage itself, having served the Second Avenue area a decade ago. Owners Kathy Holden and her mom Melanie Bowers made some fans there – four different happy people wrote or called to inform us that the deli was back in business.

  Molly’s executes a short deli menu.

  

  Corned beef and pastrami were lean, thin sliced brisket products. Roast beef and turkey, home made tuna, chicken and egg salad, and cheese completed the adult sandwich menu. A kid’s menu offered peanut butter, turkey, or cheese sandwiches with cookies and juice boxes for just $3.49. Sandwiches were served on Rotella’s breads. Reubens, stuffed tomatoes (with tuna or egg salad), and soups completed the lunch service. The latter were special. Matzo ball soup (Friday only) delivered rich chicken stock and French onion had a memorable beef flavor with shredded cheese and home made croutons.

  

  Home made potato salad, pasta salad and cole slaw all came dressed in mayo-rich style. Marvelous home made pies included fresh fruits (peach and apple), light meringues and blue ribbon crusts. At $2.25 a slice, they were bargains.

  After a decade in the same venue, El Rey had to move out of its strip mall this summer to make way for a video store. Fortunately El Rey were able to relocate just a few blocks west in Normandy Plaza. Their menu remains the same, with breakfast, chiles rellenos, fajitas and traditional stuffing for various sized tortillas ranging up to majestic burritos that are two feet long. This restaurant has become a late night magnet, particularly for restaurant workers. If anything, that seems enhanced by the move. Their new location is half again larger, accommodates a bar (that was not possible in the old space), and has a far more convenient parking lot.

  

  La Casa del Pollos Rostizados opened in a Douglas Avenue venue where both Magic Wok and Central Grill were short lived. The new place looks like it’s found a niche. On my first visit, twenty people were waiting on a Sunday for orders despite the fact the charcoal-fired rotisserie was fully employed, roasting fifty birds at a time. Weekday lunch hour service was much faster and food was superb. Four salsas, including a smoky chile de arbol, were delightfully fresh and zingy. Pinto beans were cooked whole not mashed, and rice was spiced with paprika. The chickens might be the best rotisserie style birds in town.

  

  They were splayed and racked before being circulated around two rows of burning charcoal. Their skins were perfectly golden with a hint of smokiness. Meat, even breast meat, was moister than what I find in supermarket rotisseries where birds are cooked whole. Hamburgers and French fries completed the menu.

  Bottom Line – El Rey has definitely upgraded. Molly‘s and Casa del Pollos are serving some really good food.

  Side Dishes

  Tickets are on sale ($5 advanced, $7 at the door) for Taste of Altoona at Prairie Meadows Oct. 28. All food is covered by admission. Call 967-3366.

  Molly’s Delicatessen

  621 Des Moines St., 323-3354

  Mon. – Fri. 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

  La Casa del Pollos Rostizados

  2734 Douglas Ave., 255-9953

  Daily 10 a.m. – 11 p.m.

  El Rey Burrito

  1960 Grand Ave., West Des Moines, 221-3577

  Mon. – Thurs 10 a.m. – 10 p.m., Fri. Sat. 10 a.m. – 3 a.m., Sun. 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.

  • 3:58 pm
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