November 22, 2010
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Folk Food Blooms at Azalea
Truffled cauliflower soup
Azalea has been one of Des Moines’ most recommendable restaurants since opening in 2007 in the former Kirkwood Hotel. It’s a spectacularly good looking place, faithfully restored in Deco style by developer Mike Hutchison and architect Rob Whitehead. Two-story concrete pillars frame a visitor’s first impression which is also reflected by an entire wall of tall mirrors. The dining area includes exclusive niches (three distinctively different dining areas, including a loft) without giving up a sense of democracy – half walls and glass guard rails open things up. Pampering is accomplished without snobbery by the open loft and with elegant booths. These things help compose a rare Big City vibe that rocks prior to big events at the Civic Center. Before now, the food has not been as distinctive as the space, not that there’s been anything wrong with it. It just wasn’t as nearly unique as the venue. When we first reviewed Azalea, we described its menu as “Jeremy’s greatest hits,” explaining that executive chef Jeremy Morrow was reprising many dishes he made popular at other restaurants.
Morrow retired from the restaurant business last year and Azalea’s kitchen fell into the hands of Sean Wilson, a young Carolinian who worked under celebrated chefs Todd English and Jonathan Sundstrom before moving from Seattle to support his wife’s career. Lucky us. Wilson spent months familiarizing himself with Central Iowa’s best farm products including Griffieon Farms Limousin beef (which is now recognized as the superior veal producer). Then he premiered a completely new menu rich in folk food.
Wilson reminds us of his Seattle background with a spectacular charcuterie platter that pays homage to Armandino Batali – the Seattle owner of Salumi, who is also the father of Mario Batali and the American master of charcuterie. Wilson’s Big Board platter combined house made pâté de campagne (country style pâté),
rilletes (pork cooked in pork fat), green tomato jam, duck breast prosciutto, and roasted peppers plus imported fermented meats copa, fennel finocchiona, and soppresetta. His rillettes, sealed with an aspic of duck, blew me away. Other standout starters included: a truffled cauliflower soup served with a potato crouton;
calamari escabeche with a Jamaican pepper sauce;
and wood fired pizza – including one made with duck confit, pecans, blue cheese and grape jam and another with maple-fennel sausage.
Then there was the roasted bone marrow, one of the great decadent dishes of the world. Wilson served three perfectly roasted large veal shanks upright with mini spoons marvelously paired with home made jam of Syrah and red onions. Be still my heart.
Among the entrees, a garlic and thyme basted shoulder steak, with blue cheese creamed spinach and fingerlings, delivered tenderness unexpected in that cut of beef.
Butternut squash ravioli was served with chevre on a bed of mustard greens and cured duck breast with apple butter sauce. Wine braised short ribs were paired with home made (like all pasta here) papardelle and vegetables, a most memorable beef & noodles.
The star though was a Benedict dish that presented seared scallops on fried green tomatoes, on top pf country ham grits, with roasted peppers and caramelized onions and Hollandaise sauce.
Among desserts, a homemade balsamic ice cream delivered the flavor of tamarind while a goat cheese ice cream had a texture that lingered nicely. Banana bread pudding included malt Anglaise and peanut brittle.
Lemon semifreddo was paired with blueberry compote and candied lemons. Despite all the innovations, Azalea’s prices ($5 – $27) were reduced from previous menus. Creative cocktails included homemade vermouths and bitters of distinction. Wine list ran $24 – $52 with all 25 selections available by the glass.
Azalea
400 Walnut St., 288-9606
Mon. – Thurs.: 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. , Fri. – Sat.: 5 p.m. – 11 p.m.
