November 23, 2010
-
La Fogata
Zip codes are often type cast in the food business. For instance, it’s generally assumed that chains do best in brand new suburbs while independent restaurants thrive in older neighborhoods. The logic behind that is that people in new suburbs have hefty mortgages and busy “soccer mom lives,” so they want fast, cheap food. Older neighborhoods include far more people who have paid off their mortgages, sent their kids through college, and now have discretionary income for fine, slow dining in unique restaurants. A couple years ago, restaurateur Paul Rottenberg said that the Des Moines area needed to defy such type casting. He suggested that greater Des Moines might be better off if no new independent restaurants were allowed downtown and no new chains in the 50266. Since then, his theory gained momentum when Jimmy John’s successfully invaded the downtown.
It’s good to see rebels bucking the shibboleth that certain things won’t fly in some zip codes. Marsicos la Fogata (“eternal flame seafood“) is such a place. Its neighborhood around Hubble and East Grand is the epicenter of taco truck county. Prevailing wisdom dictates that it’s no place to sell $30 seafood lunches. La Fogata also smirks at the notion that restaurants need themes by making no effort to look like an upscale seafood place. You won’t find any nautical ropes, ocean murals, nor stuffed trophy fish there. Physically, it’s pretty much unchanged from its previous incarnations, most recently as Palenque. La Fogata features Mexican folk furniture painted gaily in multiple shades of lime, yellow and orange. Several different paintings pay homage to cockfighting. In one, game cocks are being serenaded by mariachis. Another large portrait depicts trail hands sitting around a campfire roasting something that looks far more like a coyote than a fish.
Televisions play at high volume. Had I not endured a long wait for my meal one day, I might never have realized how deeply Lady Gaga has influenced Mexican versions of MTV. Service is unconventional too. One day a young waitress administered a language translation test before allowing me to read a menu. When I passed her test, I found that that several dishes exceeded the $30 bench mark and that only burgers, tacos and tostadas were priced under $11. Chef Willy said he comes from Guerrero and while in Chicago he learned to cook in the style of Nayarit. Both those states are on Mexico’s west coast so he’s committed to fresh seafood – there’s even a shrimp hamburger on his menu.
Instead of the usual chips and salsa, I was offered a complimentary service of seafood ceviche and green chile with whole tostadas and Saltines. I tried two dishes I had not seen before in Des Moines. Chicarron de pescado delivered four filets of mojarra (tilapia) rolled in a breading made of pork skins.
The result was marvelously crisp fish, served with a full iceberg salad, rice and French fries for $13. It came unconventionally with a choice of tortillas or white bread.
An aguachiles dish presented raw, splayed shrimp in a bath of lime juice and red or green chilies, served with fresh tostadas. Two caldos (seafood soups) disappointed though. Both had bland stocks of mostly tomato without any crustacean flavor, or even any herbs added.
Shrimp in one were much smaller than what one expects at the $13 – $17 price points. Still, I’ll return for other intriguing specials: a pineapple ($26) stuffed with cream and multiple sea foods; and a pulpo a la Durango, which was described as an entire, large octopus served tableside with hot chile preparation unique to Durango. Chef also said that beginning soon, a lower priced menu will be introduced for lunch.
Mariscos la Fogata
1832 E. Hubbell Ave. 262-2599
Tues. – Sun. 10 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Mexican Scorecard
Margaritas moved into the old Los Compadres… Hawaiian Grill took over the former Maragritas… Players Sports Bar opened in Mexico Viejo‘s old site… El Chisme moved into the former Café Su.
