January 3, 2011

• Meek Tweaks Sbrocco Experience

   

  Full Court Press (FCP) is a partnership of friends that has invigorated the Court Avenue district with uniquely themed restaurants Hessen Haus, El Bait Shop, Royal Mile, High Life Lounge, Fong‘s Pizza, Red Monk, Sbrocco, and Mullet‘s. Des Moines travelers who have sought unique downtown dining adventures in similarly sized Midwest towns (Wichita, Peoria, Toledo, etc.) appreciate our city’s debt to FCP. Probably the most amazing thing about this group is that all their visions have been spot-on. Every restaurant they ever opened is still up and running. None has even required tweaking. So a recent announcement that Sbrocco was revamping its menu became news.

  

  “It took me fifteen months to realize it but this is a wine bar. It’s not the place for $38 entrees,” chef Andrew Meek explained.

  Indeed, people flock to Sbrocco for its 200 inexpensive bottles of wine and 40 wines by the glass, large (six ounce) pours in Riedel stemware. So Meek created nine new “social plates” ($2 – $13) plus six “smears,” (dips) served with toasted rosemary bread to complement wines. He also retained nine social plates from previous menus. Many prices were reduced, up to 37.5%, and price reductions outnumbered increases by a 5-1 ratio.

  

  The best of the old plates was a blue prawn dish served on spoon bread with a saffron nage. New Bedford scallops on cauliflower puree with caramelized Maui onions, watercress, and apple cider syrup was a close second.

  

  A sun dried tomato soup, offered in three sizes ($2 – $6), was gorgeous but unremarkable but truffled parsnip soup mixed smooth and woodsy flavor brilliantly.

  

  The least successful of the new dishes emulated chicken & waffles ($7). Chicken breast strips were southern fried and tucked into ice cream cones with shredded lettuce and a dab of Sriracha mayo. Lettuce could have used dressing and the cone didn’t work as a waffle surrogate. Smothered chicken and dumplings ($6) was much better in its rich gravy.

  

  Deviled eggs ($5) with truffle oil and shitake shavings absorbed superb flavor from wild fennel marinade plus an acid kick from wine vinegar. Escalloped oysters ($8) with cornbread crumbs, garlic and cream employed huge oysters that are better used as fryers.

  

   Lobster pot pie (($13), with large chunks of cold water claw meat, was topped with a sensational puff pastry. A kitchen that can make this most difficult pastry should make an original waffle cone.

  One night, duck wings ($6) were correctly described as “confit on the bone” with a celery and blue cheese salad.

  

  Another night they were crisp and chewy. Thai style walleye pike ($5) was fried crunchy and served with a sweet apple slaw. Marinated mushrooms ($5) picked up flavors from oregano, fennel and garlic.

  

  Meek’s new piece de resistance is a Niman Ranch pork belly ($8) of multiple textures perfectly paired with a slaw sautéed in bacon fat, and served on apple syrup.

  

  The most original smears ($4 – $6) included a braunschweiger made with some speck (juniper cured pork butt) plus a Pella bologna mixed with roasted garlic.

  

  Tapanade was made with chevre.

  

  White bean hummus had been spiced with Sriracha. Whipped Feta was blended with cucumber and mint. Duck pâté was mixed with cornichons.

  Meek retained seven popular large dishes from his repertoire and also added four large “comfort” plates ($17-$23): lamb shank; mushroom ravioli; osso bucco; and ratatouille with pasta. House salads featured good fresh greens, mostly blue cheeses, Nueske’s bacon, and bocarones (white anchovies). Ten cheeses were served with candied almonds and peppered apricots. Dessert prices ($5-$8) were reduced considerably.

  Bottom line – Lower prices and new small plates should be a hit at downtown’s best wine bar.

  Side Dishes

  Meek said that Sbrocco plans to convert its retail wine store into an exclusive wine cellar and that tail-to-snout events will be held there next year… The old Zen space in the Hotel Kirkwood is being remodeled for a new undetermined restaurant.

  
  Sbrocco
  208 Court Ave., 282-3663
  Mon. – Sat. 11a.m. – 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.

  • 2:22 pm
  • 1 Comment