February 25, 2011
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Fickle Fates
It used to be said that attendance at funerals, no matter how famous the deceased, depended upon the weather. Then a million mourners turned out in torrential rains when Rudolph Valentino died. Fate still makes for ironic obituary linkages though. The great Russian pianist Vladimir Horowitz was tied to the one hit wonder Staff Sergeant Barry Sadler in the Fort Worth Telegram under the headline “Death of a Pianist, and a Patriot.”
I think Paul Trostel would find the linkage here amusing. I hope those who loved him do.
No Business for Old Men
Menus and waiters tout “sustainable” foods these days but the Des Moines restaurant industry is itself caught in a dire sustainability crisis. The number of restaurants has been steadily growing faster than the population for fifty years. That worked all right for the first forty because new customers were coming from the swelling ranks of working women short of time to cook at home. That trend peaked. Then came recession and rising unemployment. Now almost every customer at each flashy new restaurant is a customer lost for existing restaurants. Only the very strong survive.
Paul “Toasty” Trostel, who died last week, was the biggest character in the local restaurant scene. A bull rider and culinary gunslinger, Trostel rode into Des Moines about forty years ago from Colorado, though some say he came directly from the pages of a Larry McMurtry novel. Trostel was a two fisted bon vivant and a fighter of mostly good fights. His Colorado Feed & Grain introduced Des Moines to appetizer menus at a time when most fine dining restaurants offered a choice of “tomato juice or fruuit cocktail.” His Rosie’s Cantina was ahead of the curve by decades. By sheer force of personality, and with considerable epicurean foresight, he sustained three independent restaurants (Greenbriar, Dish and Chips) in suburban zip codes where only nationally branded chains dared go. He will be missed by the entire local industry, for which he fought relentlessly, and also by black jack dealers, bartenders and rodeo cowboys far and wide.
Modern times have been tougher for Donut King, an independent little family ranch of a business holding out against big chains. It has survived the range war between Dunkin’ Donuts and Mr. Donut, the onslaught of Krispy Kreme, and the “health trend” toward bagel chains. Donut King doesn’t do social media but social media recently did them. An unhappy first time customer (upset that credits cards aren’t accepted) posted a You Tube video called “Donut King A..Hole” in which that customer returns to the store to ask for an apology that is cursedly refused. Titles in the video include: “This is why we should hate old people. They suck;” “How does this guy stay in business. Drug operation cover maybe?;” and “How do assholes like this live to be so old?” A link to the video found a prominent placement on Yelp.
It didn’t appear to have affected business on my recent visits. The shop seemed frozen in 1954 when it was built. A fading sign proclaimed “This is not Burger King. You don’t get it your way.” Most customers sitting at the packed counter were older men. Most of the steady run of carryout customers were women with kids. One customer frequently broke out in song. Conversation ranged far from political correctness but was exchanged with laughter on both sides. Donuts were fried delights of nutritional incorrectness, as comforting in their dozens of flavors as Patti Paige‘s voice.
At 2 Fer’s Grill, Yannis Miras says he’s looked at restaurant life from both sides now. “I used to travel in a Lear jet, now I sleep in my car. I used to have a chain of restaurants and hundreds of employees. Today I am waiting tables, cooking and washing dishes by myself.” His comfortable new café is named for its bargain priced second meals. For instance, one lamb chops dinner cost $16 but two cost $10 each. Even the single prices were bargains though. Steak de Burgo ($13) included two tenderloin filets in a Mediterranean sauce of olive oil, butter, herbs and garlic. A meatball sandwich ($7) contained three giant meatballs, mozzarella and pepper rings on an expertly toasted hoagie. Eggplant parmesan ($9) was covered with Mozzarella and served with spaghetti and rich marinara. Soups were consistently homemade with rich stocks. Onion rings were super thin and lightly fried. Greek salads were heavy on Feta.
Bottom line – If you aren’t brand new, you’re old. It takes a hard edge and big spirit to keep a restaurant alive.
Two-fers Grill
2926 Merle Hay Rd., 277-7147
Mon. – Sat. 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Sun. 9 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Donut King
220 Grand Ave., West Des Moines, 274-9892
Daily 5 a.m. – noon
