April 5, 2011
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Tigers, Foxes and Goats
DSM’s New Regionalism
The last time I wrote about late night dining in Des Moines, I received this message. “Hey Dude, you must be going to bed early. There are late night options all over the place now – have been since Los Tigres came to town.”
That writer may have uncovered a cultural milestone. On September 19, 2008, Los Tigres del Norte played a “dance” at the Val Aire Ballroom in West Des Moines. At that time, the group had sold over 30 million records and had drawn 67,000 to the Astrodome, breaking the Rolling Stones’ stadium record. They had been dubbed BMI (songwriting) Icons, a few years ahead of Willie Nelson. Many thought Los Tigres played our small market to draw attention to the victims of Postville’s immigration raid in May of 2008. For whatever reason, it was a momentous event for Iowa‘s Latino community. The band is known for playing multiple 90 minute sets and continuing until all requests (written on paper and thrown on stage at the Val Aire, texted now days) have been played. Concerts last into the wee hours. Local Mexican cafes and taco trucks stayed open till 3 or 4 a.m. that Saturday morning and many have continued to do so after all “dances” to this day.
My informant’s favorite such place is Taqueria Guadalajara (TG), a trailer parked near Lutheran Hospital that is covered with a mural of El Zorro, the fox mascot of Atlas, the lesser known of Guadalajara’s two big soccer teams.
Superb taqueria fare included standard meats served as tacos, tortas, burritos, enchiladas, flautas and chimichangas. Also amongst a dozen meat choices were more esoteric things: brains, beef cheeks, braised pork bellies, tongue, and tripe. All were superbly prepared to soft textures, even usually chewy tongue and tripe. Fried potato tacos played to Tapatia chauvinism as that regional specialty was served on tortillas freshly fried in chili oil.
A second dish of Mexico’s second city – tortas ahogadas – presented Jalisco’s version of a hot pork sandwich. A large hoagie style roll was stuffed with pork and smothered in a hot gravy of red chilies. TG is now my favorite taco truck too. A previous favorite graduated to brick and mortar status when Jalisco moved into a venue that previously housed Los Saucez, Mi Lindo Nayarit, and El Tapatio. Like TG, Jalisco wears Tapatia pride. Walls are covered with photos of Jaliscan towns, and the state’s agave business – the agricultural side of tequila. Unlike TG, Jalisco is a Chivas (goat) café, in more ways than one. Chivas are the most popular soccer team in Guadalajara and Mexico as it’s the only team that only employs Mexican nationals. Chivas’ banners fly at Jalisco. Cooks and customers often wear Chivas jerseys. On game days, a large TV in the kitchen and two smaller ones in the front command attention.
In the Aztec tradition of compassionate consumption, chivas are also served here – excellent “birria tatemada,” a Tapatia style in which goat is first steamed on the stove and then baked in the oven. Jalisco’s birria was redolent with flavors of chilies, both smoked and raw, and multiple spices.
Jalisco’s tortas (including tortas ahogadas) rose to a new level of culinary excellence by using rolls from La Mie Bakery. Birria and menudo (tripe stew with legendary hangover properties) are served daily. Cheeks and tongue were the best among six offerings of meats.
Ceviche tostadas were covered with fresh avocado
Bottom Line – Regionalism thrives at these cafes. Viva los Zorros, las Chivas, et los Tigres!
Taqueria Jalisco
1704 E. Grand Ave., 262-0102
Daily 10:30 a.m. – 11:30 p.m.
Taqueria Guadalajara
725 E. University Ave., 556-0072
Sun. – Tues., Thurs. noon – 11 :30 p.m.l, Fri. – Sat. 11:30 a.m. – 1:30 a.m., open till 3 a.m. on dance nights
Side Dishes
Salvadoran Restaurante El Buen Gusto in Perry has begun a $1 “taco Thursdays” special… Restaurante Los Cabos began $3 margarita (16 oz.) specials on Wednesdays… Taco Loco announced a new an “all you can eat” buffet.
