May 16, 2013
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“An Authentic Bite of China”
Yijie Du
Yijie Du is an exchange student from theSichuan International Studies University in Southwestern China. She isfinishing a year of study at Drake University in Des Moines.
The interior of Mandarin Grill and Sushi Bar
In a small city like Des Moines, where only 4percent of the population is of Asian descent, I didn’t expect to find realChinese food like I might in Los Angeles, New York, or San Francisco. However,Mandarin Grill and Sushi Bar in Clive turned out to be a delightful jolt of FarEast culinary tradition as well as a savor journey back home.
Hidden in a strip mall, the restaurantpresents a deceptively modest outward appearance. Once inside, you’ll find a fairlyroomy space with more than 20 tables and booths and a six-seat sushi bar. The décoris modern, with touches of traditional Chinese elements. Dim lighting casts aserene glow on glossy rosewood furniture.
At 6 on a Monday evening recently, the boothswere all occupied. A waitress brought us glasses of ice water and two separatemenus. One menu caters to the American appetite with dishes like pot stickers,Mongolian beef and General Tso’s chicken.
My interest is in the second menu, whichfeatures traditional Chinese recipes with a family history. Chef and ownerKevin Liu took over the locally established Mandarin (originally located in theBeaverdale neighborhood) from his mother, a first-generation Chinese immigrant.
It’s my third trip to Mandarin, and I still can’tresist the strong temptation for Tza Djang Mien: boiled noodles in a rich meatsauce, mixed with black bean paste ($10). Topped with shredded cucumbers,onions, shrimps, sea cucumbers, squid rings and a dark brown sauce, it is asavory celebration of meat, seafood, veggies and grain. Plentiful sauce makesMandarin’s version even better than home for me. But the seafood in the noodlesis an odd extra that breaks with tradition.
Mapo Tofu from Mandarin Grill and Sushi Bar
Another mouth-watering entree I am obsessedwith is Mapo Tofu, a regular Szechuan cuisine ($10). Served with green beans,scallions, hot chilies, water chestnuts, chopped pork and tofu, the dish glistenswith a bright blend of colors: green, red and white. Each bite offers a perfectmingling of textures with the crisp chestnuts, the delicate tofu, the spicysauce, and the savory meat. The only thing missing is a seasoning of Szechuanpeppercorn.
I also recommend Yushang Eggplant (Eggplantin garlic sauce, $10). Mandarin does a solid job on this distinctive Szechuancuisine with the peculiar “fishy flavor” tradition. The eggplant peel may be abit tough but it doesn’t disturb the sweet and spicy joy.
If you like spicy food, choose La Ja Gi (hotand spicy chicken, $12). The crisp crust and the tender meat wrap around yourtongue tip with a sharp twist. Turn up the heat by requesting the dish done “Kevinstyle.”
What makes the Mandarin stand out amongChinese restaurants in Des Moines is its authentic flavor. Every dish is madefrom scratch with fresh ingredients and thoughtful cooking. Bright colors,appetizing smells and tangy tastes create a perfect harmony—the sheer beauty ofChinese cuisine.
Mandarin Grill and Sushi Bar
1250 NW. 128th St. (just north of60th and University)
