December 2, 2010
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Copa Cavana
The Ingersoll Theater’s sign is an historical landmark. For five years after the dinner theater closed in 2004, its marquee remained blank. Then last autumn, it announced that “Copa Cavana” was the coming attraction. When that club and restaurant finally opened last month, that marquee was having surgery on one side and draped with a vinyl drop cloth on the other. Because modern semiotics declares nineteen possible relationships between signs and the things they signify, I won‘t jump to any conclusion about omens. Too much is at stake. A last vestige of both the big band era and the golden age cinema in Des Moines, this theater is much loved. Its new owners seem to be keen to its potential. I’ve been told at different times that the theater would host: salsa, meringue, jazz, hip hop, and children’s movies. I was even told that Julian Serrano will be flown in for special events. That got my attention until it was clarified that this Julian Serrano is a Miami VJ, not the world famous chef.
Remodeling Copa Cavana was a major endeavor. Some infrastructure had been sabotaged and new codes presented expensive challenges. Still Ankur Amin, Katintha Mwanza, Faisal Samara and Belefia Parks stuck it out and created a theatrical re-do with touches of romance that can transport visitors to another time and place, one that looks much like Miami of previous decades. Linen covered tables, set with glass bowls of sea shells, form three plateaus that retain a movie house slope descending to a dance floor and stage. A kitchen has been built between the building’s real wall and a faux wall. A bar occupies the back of the house. The balcony level is a VIP lounge with its own dance floor and bar, plus a special menu that includes rare, even exclusive rums from South and Central America. Dance music seemed as diverse as the roots of the owners, who collectively come from Nicaragua, India, Zambia and Chicago. The theater could really use some acoustical panels during live music presentations though.
Chef Alejandro Alvarado’s menu was pan-Caribbean. Water was flavored with cucumber.
Plantain fans had a choice of vertically sliced tostones or horizontally sliced mariquitas. The former were served hot, the latter cold. Chip fans could choose between cheese dip or mango salsa.
Chicken wings were not fried but baked thoroughly in a sweet marinade. Cuban quesadillas presented flour tortillas stuffed with cheese, tomatoes, ham, onions and a choice of meats, or shrimp. Stuffed potato skins were filled with pork, cheese and onions.
Sandwiches were hearty.
A “mini burger” delivered half a pound of ground beef, two strips of bacon, cheese, tomato, onions and pickle on a large grilled Cuban bun.
A “media noche” brought roast pork, ham, cheese and pickles on fried Texas toast. All $8 – 9 sandwiches came with a choice of sides: A Caesar salad brought fresh Romaine, generous amounts of fresh shaved Parmesan cheese, home made croutons, and a dressing with subtle anchovy flavor; Cuban black beans and rice resembled dirty rice with two distinct textures.
Soups were the best items I tasted. A green chili soup had marvelous chicken flavor with crumpled fried tortilla strips on top.
Lechon asado, presented “marinated roast pork in Cuban spices. Like all the roast pork in the other dishes, it was overcooked. Coconut flan and bread pudding in rum sauce kept Caribbean themes dancing through dessert.
Bottom Line: Like the movies of old, Copa Cavana provides a romantic escape.
Copa Cavana
3711 Ingersoll Ave., 277-8000
Mon. – Sat. 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. Lounge open till 2 a.m.
Side Dishes
Bagni di Lucca’s first wine and pizza tasting was such a hit that the plan now is to make regular Thursday occasions… Amateur cook Eileen Gannon (La Crème) defeated a dozen pros to win Sweet Equality’s top prize with a trio of home made ice creams.
